onetrack Posted yesterday at 12:59 PM Posted yesterday at 12:59 PM Have they developed a version of WD-40 for electric mowers yet? 😄 1
old man emu Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago For freeing rusted threads a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid is a cheap alternative. Apparently the acetone reacts with the iron oxide, making it brittle so it breaks when a twisting force is applied. The transmissiion fluid is simply a very thin lubricant. WD-40 is mostly petroleum distillates. I suppose the costliest item is the can it comes in. 1
red750 Posted 17 hours ago Author Posted 17 hours ago I understand the WD stands for Water Displacement. 1
onetrack Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago I use a 50-50 mix of diesel and ATF for breaking up corrosion in rusted cylinder bores - it seems to work pretty well, especially if left for a few days. ATF contains strong detergents that dissolve varnish and gummy deposits that will glaze up automatic transmission clutch plates, and gum up valves and spools in transmissions, causing erratic operation - and diesel is well known as an excellent penetrant and lubricant. 1
facthunter Posted 12 hours ago Posted 12 hours ago Rust changes ACETONE. Genthin (GENERAL Thinner's in) ATF is Ok Best soaked with a sealed lid on it for GRUNGE . This best with things like Ball races. Rust is Fe2O3 or Fe304 and if there's moisture about it will be Hydrated. Lighter coloured. Phosphoric acid converts rust and doesn't remove the Base Metal. . Galvanic protection is the best Coating usually zinc based. Some rust is removed by High frequency Vibrations, Caustic bath with DC current or Molasses
onetrack Posted 12 hours ago Posted 12 hours ago Citric acid is my regular go-to product for rust removal. I make up baths of 3%-5% citric acid and dump the rusty item in it and leave it for a few days, then pull it out and pressure-wash it. If it's needed, I put the item back in again for a few more days, then pressure-wash it again. Then I spray with a 10% solution of Ranex (phosphoric acid) in a spray bottle to prevent flash rusting. Citric acid is safe, doesn't affect base metal or copper, zinc or aluminium, and it cleans iron/steel items up beautifully. But the bath must be covered and kept cool, sunlight rapidly degrades the acid. 1
old man emu Posted 12 hours ago Posted 12 hours ago 1. The WD stands for "water displacer" That comes from the fact that what we know as WD-40 was the fortieth mixture that the inventor tried when looking for whatever it was he was looking for. (I don't think what WD-40 does is what he was looking for. The discovery was accidental.) 2. We are talking about suitable products for different jobs. WD-40 or diesel/ATF are penetrating solutions. They are meant to lubricate the threads, but not attack the iron oxide. Citric acid solutions react with the iron oxide to dissolve it from surfaces. Phosphoric acid acts in a similar way to Citric acid, but it is more expensive. 1
facthunter Posted 11 hours ago Posted 11 hours ago A lot of rusty Nuts have to Be split to get them off. Drill a hole first, then use a chisel of suitable width. Nev 1
onetrack Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago I use a nut splitter, they're a really handy device. The angled ones are the best.
Marty_d Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago 10 minutes ago, onetrack said: I use a nut splitter, they're a really handy device. The angled ones are the best. Sounds like something Chopper Read would have used. 1
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