midget acquired

[spenaroo]

had a leaakdown test done last week as part of the carby drama,

the rear cylinder is lower then the rest, I suspect its valves.
story is the pitons and rings were done with the bottom end. but he just slapped the head on to sell it.
(I found the owner previous to the guy who I got it from, and he sold it with the engine not running with a broken timing gear)

hopefully the crud is from the radiator...

which opens up more questions. there is one place this car has rust. the front valance and bumper mounts.
but here is where it gets interesting.
normally they look like this:

mine has been changer to this:

 

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

I think it has a timing CHAIN. What is the HOT idling oil pressure like? Maybe pick up a better head (Good exhaust seats). There might be new ones out there. Check the tappet clearances and keep driving it for a while. Needs a good oil for the camshaft and followers. Thick with friction modifiers.  Nev. 

[spenaroo]

your right it does have a chain. just remember him telling me it had a broken tooth.

 

its also had the mechanical fuel pump taken off and a block-off plate fitted - so could have a different cam in it (one reason to do that)

idling hot oil pressure is 40psi, which seems normal on the midget 1500 Facebook page.

cold start the oil level is 60-80psi. it does burn oil. normally top it up 250-500ml every half tank or so.

using the Penrite classic light oil (20w60)- as it has the zinc additives, little thicker then the 20w50 originally spec'd

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

That oil pressure is fine. . Oil could be getting down your valve guides. if the head's ordinary..   Nev  .

[spenaroo]

yeah, I think its at a point now where I can drive it for a while,

enjoy it and then when she starts smoking or the oil turns to milkshake ill get the head rebuilt.

still not sure whether or not to use lead additive. I throw it in anyway just to be safe.

but have been told that it should be fine without if running on 98. 

 

still need to figure out what to do about the front end.

originally was going to de-bumper it. but now I've found the "custom" valance I'm thinking fiberglass Sebring style front end

Edited February 19 by spenaroo

[facthunter]

The exhaust seats never lasted that long in those motors anyhow and the  seat faces are wide originally to help cool the valves. The middle two cylinders have a siamesed exhaust port so two exhaust valves are in close proximity. Never use a WILD cam in these motors or they run awfully at some part of the rev range..  If you could get AVGAS  cheap it would help the seats. A lot of race cars ran it at the time.  Nev